Pintucks: a simple how-to

July 16, 2024 1 Comment on Pintucks: a simple how-to

by Molly Hamilton

Pintucks play a big role in our new 234 Cameos pattern.  Both sewn versions have pintucks along the fronts and backs.  Pintucks are often found in vintage garments like the one that this pattern is based on.  They were popular in the late 19th and early 20th century, especially on blouses, camisoles, summer dresses, and children's clothes.  

Pintucks are easy to make, but they definitely add time to your construction.  The number of tucks in these camisoles is not terrible and is totally worth the extra work. 

I am going to show you how I sew my pintucks in this post.  However, there are a number of ways to create pintucks.  If you want small pintucks that are more like a raised line of fabric, you can use a double needle with a tight tension and sew a straight line.  You can also put a heavy thread going through the middle of it to give more depth to the pintuck.  I have tried this method and while it is decorative, it does not give me the size pintuck I like.  

To make pintucks, I transfer the markings from the top and bottom of the pintucks on the pattern to the fabric.  I try to make sure the pintucks fall on the straight grain of the fabric.  This makes making the pintucks easier and there is less distortion. 

I connect the top and bottom of the pintuck, only where the fold of each pintuck will fall, not where the stitching is going to be.  

Then, I press the pintuck with the transferred line at the edge of the tuck, with wrong sides of the fabric together.  And I sew 1/8" (3mm) from the edge of the pintuck.  I don't always backstitch at the beginning and end of the rows because the stitching will be cut when the pattern pieces are cut out (at least for this pattern).  Also backstitching adds bulk to these tiny seams.  And, if you really mess up, not locking the stitches makes it easy to pull them out and try again.  Also, use a longer stitch that you normally would when making pintucks.  This helps keep a smooth tuck without any puckering.

Having the pintucks so close together in this pattern (as they would be in most patterns from this era), can be a little challenging.  However, I don't worry about which direction the pintucks go until I am finished with a section.  Then I can press, with steam, the pintucks and get them folded in the correct direction.  I will press from the front and the back of the fabric.  A good iron is very helpful for making nice pintucks.

Here in the office, Esi makes her pintucks slightly differently.  She pins the entire tuck before pressing, matching the "legs" of the tuck where the stitching goes.  She stitches the pintuck, then presses it.  And they come out quite well.  Which goes to show there are many correct ways to make pintucks.  

My pintucks are not perfect.  But I don't expect them to be.  I want them to be decent, but I am not a perfectionist.  You don't have to be either - you can sew pintucks and get good looking ones without them being perfect.  They will look just as good!  And if you feel like any of your tucks are frustratingly wrong, just pull them out and do it again.

Tell us, do you have any tips or tricks for making pintucks?  Do you love pintucks?  Do you add them to your garments?

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