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The 106 Turkish Coat is a surprisingly versatile coat pattern. It can, of course, be made with lining and batting and entirely hand or machine quilted. You can add trapunto the the borders (or quilt them). You can mix and match coordinating and contrasting fabrics throughout - in the panels, lining fabric, borders, border linings. You can also make this coat with pre-quilted fabric, and still take advantage of a separate fabric for lining and borders and/or border linings. And, you can make this an an unlined coat - the simplest version. Instructions for an unlined coat are not specifically included in the pattern, but I know many people who have done so, and I wanted to provide this tutorial for anyone who wasn't quite sure what to do to make an unlined version. Plus, this pattern can seem a little intimidating when reading through it - the quilting, the batting, the trimming, the fitting pieces together. So, starting with an unlined version can help you dip your feet into the pattern in general and inspire you to go for a fully quilted version later. And, the unlined version can get you through cool (but not cold) days or nights, especially in the transition seasons, and provide an easy outlet for some artistic creativity. The quilted version is perfect for winter and staying warm in winter months.
Fabric
You can use just about any woven fabric for an unlined version, but a sturdy fabric will likely hold up to the pattern construction best. You can even make one from a nylon or oilcloth for a nice raincoat. You can use different fabrics for the different panels of the coat. The front and back are cut as one piece, but you can add seam allowances and sew them together at the shoulder, if you want. The Front/Back panel is a great one to use for any kind of special fabric you have. You need at least 2.75 yards of fabric to make a full-length version for just the front and back panel. And it will need to be at least 18" wide for the largest size (up to an 1.5" narrower for the smallest size and wider if you want to make a larger size). The side panels, gussets, cuffs, and borders (and sleeves) are great pieces to use that smaller bit of special fabric you have been saving. The hem borders don't use a lot of fabric and you can cut them on the cross grain if you need to. Don't forget that you will need to cut linings for all the border and cuff pieces. So again, you can use your main fabric or special fabric or just use some scrap fabric you have on hand that will work. The bottom borders won't show and you will only get glimpses of the cuff and hem borders if they aren't turned up. And of course, you can use the same fabric for all parts of the coat if you want!
To make this coat, I used a section of printed Japanese cotton for main parts of the coat and a black raw silk for smaller panels and the linings of the borders.
Sizing and Cutting Out the Pattern
Do read our blog post on sizing and sizing up this pattern. It is easy to size this pattern up - you just need to add width to the side seams of the Front/Back.
If you are going to lengthen or shorten the Front/Back, be sure to also lengthen or shorten the front border H (1 and 2) by the same amount.
You will cut out all the same pieces of the coat, but you will NOT cut out a lining for the Front/Back, Sleeve, Side Panel, and Gusset. You will only cut these from the main fabric.
You will need to cut lining pieces for all your borders (and the welt if you are using that piece - I did not for this coat). But, don't cut these pieces out until later in the coat making session. You will be instructed by the pattern how long to make each piece.
Sewing the Unlined Coat
You will, in general, follow the instructions provided in the pattern, but ignore any instructions referring to batting and lining.
You will also need to decide how you want to finish your seams. Since the coat is unlined, the seams will be exposed on the inside. I chose to serge the seams in this coat as it is simple and quick and fairly neat. But you could also turn under the seam allowances and stitch them, do a bound seam, or another seam finish.
First, you sew the gussets to the top of the side panels, matching notches. The straight edges of each piece are the same side; and the slanted edges are on the other.
Then, sew the slanted edges of two side panel sections together, with right sides together.
Now sew each sleeve together from the wrist just to the dot on the pattern; and clip both seams to the dot.
Sleeve is pinned with right sides together and I am pointing at the dot where you stop sewing (and backstitch to secure).
Clip both seams to the dot. This will help with matching the sleeve to the gusset/side panel.
Sew the underarm of the sleeve to the side panel gussets, matching the seams. You will need to open the unsewn section of the sleeve to match the side panel/gusset. Be careful around the sleeve seam, sewing close to the dot on the sleeve, but not catching extra fabric in the stitching. Press seams open.
Sleeve (black) underarm seam matched to the gusset (printed) seam.
Sleeve (top) is sewn to the gusset/side panel section. The seams match at the underarm.
This shows the inside of the sleeve attached to the gusset/side panel section, with the seams finished and pressed open.
Next, you will sew on the front extension pieces to the front panel. Then sew the sleeve/side panel to the front/back section. I found matching the stars first, and pinning the sleeve to the front/back first made it easier to put these pieces together. Press the seams open. If you are wanting to add an in-seam pocket to this coat, this is the time to do it (before you sew this seam completely). See our blog post here about adding an in-seam pocket to a garment.
Front extension is pinned the the front body, matching notches (chalked notches).
Matching the star on side section to star on front/back.
Follow the instructions for finishing the sleeve and adding the cuff. I cut off 1/2" (13mm) at the sleeve wrist, which made my sleeve opening 15.25". So following the pattern instructions, the notched edge of my sleeve cuff should be 16.5" long. I had to add 1/4" to the sleeve cuff. I cut 4 sleeve cuffs; 2 for outer and 2 for lining. I sewed them, right sides together on three sides and trimmed the corners and seams.
Cutting off 1/2" at wrist of sleeve
I added a 1/4" to the sleeve cuff. I used chalk to make markings for this pattern and it worked really well.
My four cuff pieces - 2 outer, 2 lining. The cuff is one place where you might want your lining to be a fabric that would be seen because you can turn the cuff up to show the lining side.
Cuff pieces pinned together to be sewn on three sides.
Next, you sew one open side of your cuff to the right side of your sleeve wrist. The cuff should meet at the underarm seam. Press the seam to the cuff. Then turn under 1/2" on the cuff lining and slip stitch it over the seam.
Here is the finished cuff.
Finished cuff turned back.
Borders
I am going to do a whole section on the borders because it can get a little confusing (not quite just like a normal sewing pattern), but if you follow the instructions, you should have no problems.
You can now cut out your border pieces, I and J and H. Piece I and J have a left and right side, but you can use one piece, just make sure the markings transfer correctly to the proper side. You might want to label the front and backs and left and right sides as well as make sure you get the markings done properly. It is important to measure the coat as the pattern instructs for cutting the border pieces the proper size. If you made changes to the width of length of the coat, you will need to take that into account (measuring is the best option for getting this correct). Finally, even though you cut these pieces larger (or smaller) than the pattern, be sure the transfer your marks by the ends of the pieces; i.e. move the pattern pieces to the end of your fabric piece to transfer those marks. Also note that you will probably ignore the notches - they will not likely match to anything if you changed your sizing at all, but they are helpful for knowing which side to attach to the body of the coat.
Here I have moved the pattern piece to the end of my fabric so I can transfer the markings correctly.
You will sew the main and lining pieces of Back Hem J together like you did the cuff - on three sides. Trim corners and seams and turn. Attach the Back Hem to the back as instructed, and turn under the lining by 1/2" and whip stitch to the inside over the seam.
To put front border to front hem border, you will work with the notched edges to the inside (straight sides go to the outside for H). Put Pieces H and I together with right sides together at the bottom corner and stitch from edge to dot. Do this for the outer pieces on both sides and for the lining pieces on both sides. This puts the front and bottom borders together.
I have pieces H an I lined up ready to go together. The markings on each line up with each other.
Pinned together at the corners. I stitched from the outer edge to the dot.
Do the same for the lining pieces.
Now, you will stitch the outer pieces to the lining pieces of this border - from the short end of the front hem border, around to the long side of the front hem border, around the corner you created by putting H and I together, and up the front border. Trim the seam, turn and press. Do this for the left and right side.
Lining and outer fabrics for front borders pinned together on the outer edge.
Clip the seam at the corner to the dot. Now sew the outer border to the right side of the body of the coat to about 3 inches to the center back. You will turn the corner at the front and stitch up the front. I stitched the front hem border first, then stitched up the front to within 3" of the center back (basically to the stars). Follow the instructions for finishing the back neck. And finish stitching the border to the coat. Press the seam toward the border. You will then turn the open border linings to the inside by 1/2" and whipstitch the lining over the seam line for the front hem and front border.
Corner of borders clipped.
Front hem border stitched to bottom of coat. Border lining is free from stitching and will have 1/2" edge turned under later and stitched.
Border attached to body of coat.
This shows the front border pinned to the body of the coat on a dress form.
And where I stopped stitching in the back. The border and the neck is stitched together at the center back, then attached to the body of the coat.
Finally, all the border linings are turned under and whip stitched to the inside of the coat, over the seams. This really doesn't take too long and is quite easy. I do like to pin or baste my border linings in place so they don't get distorted while I stitch.
You coat is completed! The 106 Turkish Coat is a great pattern for doing so much, and this unlined version still allows for so much artistic creation and inspiration!
Molly
April 15, 2024
I can see about getting some more cuff photos up. But, you are doing the same thing with the cuff as all the edge pieces. There is basically a facing that is sewn on 3 sides to the cuff, then you sew the open edge of the cuff to the sleeve. The cuff ends meet but do not overlap. You’ll need to go slow at each end of the cuff so that you don’t stitch into the facing. Just stich from seam to seam. Press the seam allowance toward the cuff. Turn under 1/2" on the cuff facing and fold it over the seam line. Stitch the folded edge of the cuff facing over the seamline. I stitched by hand so it would not be seen.