A Modern 246 Calico Day Dress

November 13, 2024 3 Comments on A Modern 246 Calico Day Dress

When we decided to bring back the Calico Day Dress from the Folkwear archives, I had my doubts.  We had many customers over the years contact us to ask us to bring it back, but I saw the dress as a bit dowdy, maybe only for costume, and I was also concerned that it used so much fabric (making it expensive to make).  However, once we started working on the pattern, my mind changed.  

When we started the work to bring it back into print, we decided first to grade the pattern up to 2XL.  The original only went to our current size Medium (which is pretty tiny).  And, then we improved the instructions, clarifying certain areas and making sure it came together easily.  It really is a pretty easy dress to sew!  Even with the ruffles, the flounce, and the inside bodice lining, it takes less time and effort than I thought to make this dress.  

I made the brown Calico Day Dress sample below with a calico cotton print I found at Joann's.  I made the inside bodice lining with a cream colored print, which I though made an interesting contrast to the brown.  I enjoyed making the dress below a lot and it got me thinking of the ways to make a more modern, everyday type dress I might want to wear.  

Then I came across an ad for Boden, and the dress they showed in the ad looked so much like the Calico Day Dress!  I had been thinking about a dress that would be warm to wear in winter -- long and with long sleeves.  So I decided to make one for myself based on the look of the Boden dress I'd seen.

First, I wanted fabric that would be flowing -- not a cotton, but something with silk or Tencel.  We had a couple of lovely Tencel twills in stock (red and green) and I decided to use the brick red colored Tencel.  The twill gives the dress just enough weight to make it a wonderful winter dress -- it has some heft and is flowing (and does not wrinkle easily).

I cut a size Small for this dress.  I am just about between a size Small and Medium for Folkwear grade rule, but the medium can sometimes be too big for me.  If the garment is not very fitted, then a Small is usually perfect.  That was the case for this dress.  There is actually lots of room at the bust, waist, and hip.  The most fitted area is the lined bodice at the waist (but I left that part of the dress off).  

For my dress, I did not want the bodice lining because I wanted the front to button up (not the lining) and I wanted less bulk inside.  I also did not want the yoke shoulder ruffles so I left those off as they seemed too vintage/historic and I was wanting a modern look.  Finally, I wanted just a collar stand and not the full turndown collar.  So I only cut the collar stand piece and not the collar.  I wanted the belt to be longer so that I could tie it, so I added about 9" to the middle of the belt.  If I did it again, I would add more length (and I could always easily remove this belt and make a new one).   Finally, my fabric was nearly 60" (150cm) wide, and I was trying to save fabric, so I only cut 2 flounce pieces rather than 3 and I used the whole width of the fabric for the flounce (rather than the pattern piece length).  This still gave me lots of flounce and room to gather.  And possibly, 3 flounces would have been too much, especially for the size small.  

So, because of all the pieces I did not use (bodice lining, ruffle, collar, and extra flounce), I was able to cut out this maxi dress from just 3.5 yards of fabric!  That felt pretty impressive to me.  Though I was definitely doing some pattern tetris to get all the pieces to fit!

AND, I added pockets to the dress.  I had enough fabric from the left over scraps to cut 4 pocket pieces to add to the side seams.  We have a whole tutorial on adding pockets to side seams, so you can get a free pocket pattern and read all about it here.

Construction-wise, this was pretty simple, especially without the extra pieces.  It is pretty easy to leave off the bodice lining; nothing depends on the lining for further construction.  I sewed the the collar stand as I would have a collar (sewed all sides but the one to attach to the neckline) and attached it as normal.  It all came together pretty easily.  Gathering the flounce is always a bit of work, but marking centers of the flounce and dress front and back is a huge help.  I sewed the center front seam all the way up to my waist (which was much higher than the box in the pattern) because I wanted to have buttons just go from my waist up.  I only added 3 small buttons to the front seam/hem so that it buttons up the front.  Again, there was enough ease in this pattern that I can easily slip it over my head to get it on and off.  If you want it to be easier to get in and out of, keeping the front seam attached from the square in the pattern to the hem is a better idea.  But, this works perfect for me.

I really like how this dress turned out!  I can wear it to work or church.  I can wear it with tights or leggings underneath for more warmth, with a scarf, with a jean jacket.  It feels quite versatile.  I also have some thoughts about adding embroidery down the center front seam and/or the collar stand.  

What do you think?  Does the Calico Day Dress work as a modern dress?  How would you make this pattern up?

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