- Home
- About
-
Shop
-
Sewing Patterns
-
Fabric
- Sewing Supplies
- Folkwear Clothing
-
- Blog
- Customer Gallery
- Contact
by Esi Hutchinson
The 231 Big Sky Riding Skirt is a genius example of the evolution of a riding habit (clothing for horse-riding) for women to something practial. The riding "skirt" allowed women to ride astride a saddle rather than sit side-saddle (which seems impossible to me). A flap on the front buttons to one side to look like a skirt and to the other to transform into pants.
Surprisingly, sewing this garment isn't as time-consuming as it may seem at first glance. The only thing that might be a little confusing, or take extra time, is assembling the front flaps, and the one back pleat, and buttonholes. After finishing this pair of pants, I was very impressed with the construction and ingenuity of this garment.
We just resized this pattern, and now sizes XS-3XL are available in the PDF pattern (and very soon the paper pattern). I have always wanted to make this pattern so this seemed like a great opportunity to do a sew along. For this sew along, I made the midcalf length with size medium in the body of the garment and a size small at the waist.
Let's get started!!!
Fabric and Sizing
This pattern calls for medium to heavyweight cottons and blends such as poplin, denim, gabardine or corduroy. Medium weight linen, wool, or silks like dupioni, jacquard, or raw silk would also work well. I made my pants with a sanded cotton twill Cotton Sanded Twill - Tobacco for this blog post.
The first time I made these pants (and after I sewed the buttonholes), I realized I made a size too small by mistake. My measurements fit the size medium, but I needed the waist smaller. Instead of narrowing the waist area, which I usually need to do, I narrowed each pattern piece along the side seams. That was a really silly mistake, but it happens. I had to start over, and I used a dark brown linen instead for my final pair of riding pants. So the lesson is, make a muslin to start out if you are at all unsure how the fit will be on you.
Tips for cutting out the pattern
Make any fit adjustments to the leg pieces (and waistband) before cutting out your fabric.
Don't forget to transfer all the stars and boxes, darts, and pleat lines on your pattern pieces.
You can also label your pieces with a water removable marker or chalk to make it easier for you to see what the pieces are.
Seam Finishes
The seam finishing recommended for this pattern is a flat felled seam if you don't want to do that overcast, serge or zig zag your seam allowances. However, the flat felled seam makes the inside nice and neat and it adds a bit of topstitching to your garment. To make a flat felled seam read this blog post on How to Make Flat Felled Seams.
I like a faux flat felled seams, however. It is quicker and easier to do and looks good on the outside. To make a faux flat-felled seam, serge, overcast, or zig zag the seam allowances and press the seam to one side. Then top-stitch about 1/4" (6mm) away from the seam line, stitching the seam allowance in place.
Sewing the Pattern
Front and Back
To start, stitch front legs C together with right sides facing, at the center front seam, and matching notches 7.
To attach the front panel, pin the left side of the front panel A (as you wear it) to the right front legs C with right sides together and matching notches 2, 6, and the center front of panel A to the center front seam of front legs C. Stitch from the bottom hem to the waist and across the top of the waist to the center front seam of front legs C. Stop stitching at the center front seam, and backstitch to secure.
Clip to the stitching line at the center seam.
Clip the corner to reduce bulk and turn the pieces with right sides out and press.
Put the front of the skirt aside for now.
The back piece B is a bit strange-looking. There is a deep box pleat in the back that gives the skirt its fullness. Stitch the back pieces together at the center back seam, matching notches 3.
Keeping the back pieces with right sides together, stitch on the pleat line, matching the pleat stitching lines. Now, we put this piece aside for a minute.
Sew the darts on pieces E and press the darts toward the side (towards the double notches 5).
You will then stitch the side back E pieces to each side of the back, matching single notches 7.
Now to make the deep box pleat. Place the pleat stitching line over the center back crotch seam and press flat - fabric will to to each side of the pleat line. Baste the waist of the pleat to the waist of the back. The pleat will overlap slightly on the side back pieces E.
Pockets!
I like big pockets, so I made my pockets larger as you can see below.
Sew one pocket piece to each side front D, with right sides together and matching double notches 5. Clip the seam allowance to the stars and press the seam allowance towards the pocket pieces.
Do the same with the back skirt, stitching one pocket piece to each side back pieces E. Again, clip the seam allowance at the stars and press the seam allowance towards the pocket pieces.
You can now stitch the front and back pockets together around the outer edge of the pockets up to the star. Put the front and back of the pants together and start sewing at the pockets.
Waist
There is a little bit of gathering of the pants at the waist. I think it gives the appearance of making the "skirt" look fuller.
Make the two rows of gathering stitches on the side fronts within the seam allowance. Make sure to keep the pockets out of the stitches. Press the pockets towards the side front, if you haven't already. I did not bast the pockets to the side fronts, I did not want it to be bulky when I pull the gathering stitches. I just had to remember to make sure the pockets are towards the side fronts when I attach the waistband.
Waist Plackets
Press under 1/2" (13mm) on the long edge of the placket facing G and placket H on the side opposite of the box. Then press under 1/2" (13mm) on short edges of G and H.
Only on the placket facing G, topstitch the pressed edges on both the long and short edges 3/8" (1cm) from the pressed edge.
Take one placket facing and with right sides together, stitch it on the right side of the front panel A (as you wear it) at the waist.
You will do the same with the remaining placket facing on the left front leg (as you wear it).
Press the previously stitched side of the placket facings to the inside of both panel A and leg C, and slip stitch the pressed edges of facing on the inside.
Now, stitch one placket H to each side front piece D from the waist to the marked box. Clip the seam allowance to the box. Trim the seam allowance of the placket only. Press the seam towards the placket.
Placket H has a center fold line. Press along the center fold line of the placket H and place the pressed edge of the placket over the previously stitched seam line and top stitch on both long and short edges.
Now you can sew the front and back sides of the skirt together. Make sure the placket on the side front and the placket facing on the front panel overlap slightly at the box and 1/2" (13mm) above the box.
Stitch from the hem to the box and 1/2" (13mm) above the box.
You should then secure the bottom of the placket and placket facing pieces (G and H) by stitching, with right sides together, through both placket and facing 1/2" (13mm) above the box on the short edge of the pieces.
I did not interface my waistband. I felt my fabric was sturdy enough to not use it.
Press under 1/2" (13mm) seam allowance of both waistbands I and J as instructed, fold in half along the center fold line lengthwise, and stitch the short ends. Clip the corners and turn right side out.
To attach back waistband pieces, place WRONG side of skirt to the RIGHT side of the waistbands. Pin the front waistband to the raw edges of the front of the skirt. Stitch, clip corners, and turn and press.
I like it when instructions say to sew the waistband right side to wrong side. It makes the outside look neater when you topstitch from the right side rather than the inside of the garment.
Press the folded edge of the waistbands over the previously stitched seam lines (to the right side) and top stitch.
To secure the waistband at the sides. You can sew two skirt hooks on the short ends of the inside of the front waistband and two skirt eyes on the short ends of the outside of the back waistband. You can also sew buttonholes on either side on the short ends of the front waistband, or whatever closure you prefer to secure the waist on the sides. I used buttons.
Buttonholes
This is where my sewing got a little frustrating. I have not mastered buttonholes they do not all end up looking the same -- but it's okay, I am still learning.
You can read a lot about of general information about making buttonholes and attaching buttons in our blog posts: Buttonholes 101: Part 1 and Buttonholes 101: Part 2.
Sew the buttonholes on the left front leg C (as you wear it) and along both sides of front panel A. You can use 8 to 12 (or more buttons), depending on the length you are making, the size of your buttons, and the spacing you want to use. Use the template if it makes it easier to space the buttonholes, or space the buttonholes as desired.
half an hour later....
After I sewed all the buttonholes (I got lots of practice), I realized the pants would not fit me. So I made a new skirt out of dark brown linen and I will be demonstrating the rest of the sew along with my final riding skirt (dark brown linen rather than the brown twill).
You will sew buttonholes on left front leg, and both sides of the front panel. DO NOT CUT ALL THE BUTTONHOLES. Cut only the top three buttonholes on the right side of the front panel, the top three buttonholes on left front leg, and all buttonholes on the left side of the front panel.
There are options to cut your many buttonholes. You can use a buttonhole cutter. This would be my preferred choice (it makes it a lot quicker and neater).
Or, you can pin either side of the short end of the buttonhole and use a seam ripper to cut the buttonhole open. The pins prevent you from cutting past the buttonhole. However, you can still cut the sides of the buttonhole by mistake, so be careful.
You will only cut the top buttonholes that attach to the plackets on the right side of the front panel and the left front leg, as you wear it.
Cut all the buttonholes ONLY on the left side of the front panel A.
Finishing
The bottom hem is 1-1/2" (3.8cm), so press under 1/2" (13mm) then 1" (2.5cm). The instructions say to slip stitch but I topstitched the hem in place.
If you want, you can topstitch the front panel A using a 1/4" (6mm) seam allowance starting from the center front across from the left top half and down to the left side to the hem.
Attach the buttons: I think it's wise to use thread shanks when attaching the buttons, as it will accommodate the thickness of the fabric in the panel. It will prevent puckering and pulling of the fabric if you make a thread shank. This blog post has lots of information about buttons and shows how to make a shank.
Below is the final 231 Big Sky Riding Skirt I made. I love them, this is such a unique pair of pants that fits quite well into modern-day fashion. I've never owned a pair of culottes, and I was a bit nervous I was not going to like the look. However, I think they are great and I will definitely be wearing these! I have always wanted to make this pattern. It was really frustrating that my first skirt didn't work out, but I like what I ended up with. Sewing is always teaching me lessons!
Here I've paired the skirt with 210 Armistice Blouse and all I need now is a helmet and a horse. Haha!
