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Adding Side Slits to the Djellaba

September 18, 2018

The 157 Moroccan Djellaba has 4 potential views to make - ankle length, upper calf length, and with or without a front zipper. Ankle length and no front zipper (i.e. pullover), View C is the most traditional view of the Djellaba. It is also my favorite version so far because I made it in a gorgeous bright yellow rayon that feels luxurious and relaxed at the same time. I feel like I should be swanning along at beach-side summer sunset cocktail party with a drink in my hand.

Anyway, I wanted to show you how to make this version with side slits because, while it is perfect for strolling along poolside or around the house, if you are wanting to do any long striding in it, you might want a little more space in the lower leg area. Or, if you just think side slits are sexy, here's a quick little tutorial.

First, decide how far up you want the slit to go. I marked it with a washable marker at 20 inches from the unfinished hem. Sew the side seam to that marker, leaving the seam below marker open. Make sure to back stitch to lock the stitches and to reinforce the stitching at the slit.

Then, you should finish you side seams how you like. Note: I did not finish my side seams here (don't judge :-) - I usually do!), but I should have serged them, or turned them under and stitched them since rayon does ravel. If you serge your seams, you can do the side slit as follows, just don't turn under your seam allowances. It is a little easier to serge and stitch rather than turn the edges under, but I like this look too.

I then turned under the seam allowance to the inside twice (1/4" turn each time) on each side of the slit and pressed. If you have serged or over locked your seam, you just need to turn the seam allowance (1/2" for this pattern) to the inside and press.

Then, start stitching up one side of the slit. When you reach the mark for the slit, stitch a couple of stitches above it, and pivot your garment with the needle down. Stitch across the top of the slit, then pivot the garment with the needle down to sew down the other side of the slit. Sew down the other side of the slit.