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During the late Victorian and early Edwardian era, camisoles played a crucial role in women's fashion. These undergarments were not only functional but also served as a fashion statement. They were typically made of lightweight fabrics such as cotton, linen, or silk, which are known for their breathability and comfort. Unlike earlier styles of camisoles, late Victorian camisoles were often more embellished and decorative. They featured intricate lace trims, delicate embroidery, pintucks and ribbon accents, adding a touch of femininity to the undergarment. The undergarments were not only practical but also served as a symbol of modesty and femininity. They were designed to provide an extra layer of coverage under sheer or low-cut dresses. These late Victorian (and early Edwardian) camisoles were a reflection of the societal norms and fashion trends of the era. Their intricate designs and functional purpose make them a fascinating piece of fashion history that continues to inspire clothing today, and inspired us to bring back the pattern, 234 Cameos.
234 Cameos has been sitting in the Folkwear archives for many years. First published in 1985, this pattern went out of print at least 10 years ago and was never brought back (until now). And that is a real shame because this pattern is delightful.
234 Cameos consists of 4 patterns: two sewn camisoles, one long sleeve, one sleeveless (with two views); a knitted short sleeve camisole, and a crocheted sleeveless camisole. These designs come from the late Victorian and early Edwardian eras; the long sleeved camisole pattern is based on an original from the 1890s. These camisoles feature lots of lace worked into the patterns, from lace edgings to lace insertion to lace designs in the crochet and knit work.
I have tended to shy away from lace in my clothes, but I really loved the look of these camis (which is a reason we wanted to bring them back into print), especially with the lace. Not only is lace in clothing on trend right now, it adds romance and interest to your clothes, and it can be fun to sew with (learn new skills, loads of design possibilities).
This pattern took a lot of work, or re-work, to be ready to release. First, we had all the camisoles graded up. The original pattern was available in sizes 6-16, which is our current X-Small to Medium. Which is quite small. We had the sewn camisoles graded up to 3XL and the knitted and crocheted camisoles to 2XL. Then we tested the sewing patterns, then made sample garments. Which is when we really fell in love with this pattern! We loved working with the lace, loved the seemingly endless combinations of fabrics, views, lace, tucking, and modifications that can be made to make these very flattering camisoles. We actually loved the lace and beading so much (and had a time finding lace and beading we loved) that we decided to stock lace and beading in our shop. The lace and beading we have works perfectly with this pattern.
The long sleeved camisole has a darted sleeve, lace at the neckline and cuff, tucks in the front and back, as well as optional lace insertion. The waist is gathered into a flattering peplum. The scoop neckline and the waist is gathered with delicate ribbon through lace beading. We will soon have blog posts to show you modifications for the sleeve and how we made some of our samples.
Long-sleeved camisole in green cotton/linen blend.
Long-sleeved camisole in yellow linen with lavender lace.
The sleeveless camisole in this pattern has two views. Both have wide set scoop neck fronts, princess seams and darts to create a flair below the waist in the back (to go over a bustle in years past). View A has a plain yoke; the yoke of View B has pintucks and lace (insertion if you want). Both views have lace around the yoke and are finished at the neck and armholes with lace edging.
Sleeveless camisole, View B, with a plain yoke in a cotton with fine embroidered designs.
View A with a plain yoke in a flat seersucker print.
View B with a tucked yoke.
Back of the sleeveless camisole (View B) with tucked yoke and lace.
A beautiful chevron lace pattern is used to knit the short-sleeve knitted camisole. The waist and sleeves are gathered with ribbon or knitted cord and make a very pretty top. The sleeveless crocheted camisole has a lace pattern made into each side of the front, and is buttoned in the front. The waist is also gathered by ribbon or cording to create a pretty silhouette.
Crocheted camisole worn over the long-sleeved camisole (with the 206 Quilted Prairie Skirt)
Stay tuned for some blog posts showing more details and modifications for this pattern. We really enjoyed using this pattern to create samples (and garments we are going to continue to wear) and hope you enjoy it just as much!
