Lace Insertion for Passionflower Lingerie Top

January 20, 2023

by Esi Hutchinson

This short blog post will focus on the optional lace insertion for 510 Passionflower Lingerie Top. Adding lace insertion to this pattern can really up the wow-factor.  You can add lace to the bodice, on the outer layer or through both the outer and lining for a more see-through look.  Folkwear has another blog post about lace insertion that you can refer to for more information and some basic instruction:  How to sew Lace Insertion.

For the Passionflower Lingerie Top, you will need about 1-1⅝yds (.9-1.5m) lace. You may need less if you are just wanting to add to the front bodice pieces, or if you just want to add a small design.  Before purchasing lace, you can measure the area you want to cover with lace insertion to get a more accurate understanding of how much lace you will need.  

I used a synthetic black lace. Be aware when using synthetics to be careful when pressing, use a low heat setting, or else you might melt the lace (and ruin your iron).

For this demonstration, I only cut out the bodice pieces A and B as well as the Lining and followed the instructions for only the Bodice construction.  Construction of the bodice goes forward as normal.

Wrong side of my bodice pieces (outer and lining).

Front bodice outer and lining sewn together.

Front bodice turned right side out with lining.

Beginning of Lace Insertion

Pin the lace near the top edge of the bodice, or wherever you wish to have the lace.  As you are stitching you may have to adjust the lace depending on the stretch of the lace.  

Stitch the top and bottom of the lace about 1/8-1/4" (3.2-6.4mm) from the lace edge with a short straight stitch or a narrow zigzag stitch. Use a narrow zig zag stitch if your lace has a lot of stretch.

Turn to the inside of the bodice and spread the outer layer open the lining.  You will cut the lace leaving about 1/4"(6.4mm) seam allowance.  Be very sure not to cut into the lace or Lining.

Here I am cutting away the fabric from behind the lace, leaving about 1/8"-1/4" (3-6mm) allowance.  

 Here all the fabric has been cut away from behind the lace.  

Press the seam allowance away from the lace, if your lace is synthetic press lightly and/or use a low heat setting.

Now, stitch close to the pressed edge, with a short straight stitch or a narrow zigzag.  This keeps the cut edge out of the lace, finishes more cleanly and helps prevent fabric from fraying.

Now you can fold the bodice lining back down and proceed with the pattern.  If you want, you can do this same process with the lace through both layers of the bodice (outer fabric and lining).  This will make the top a bit more see-through which can be a fun effect.  You will need to deal with both layers in the seam allowance, but careful pressing and sewing the edge can work well.  A very light-weight fabric that does not fray easily is helpful.  

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